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posted in "Cat Photography"

petar
(07.05.2008 10:03:31)

I have used Olympus C-770, Canon 20D, Sony R1, Canon 300D and Canon 350D. From those, I liked the most Canon 20D with Canon 135mm F/2L. It was a little short, but very sharp and fast. My best pictures are made with this equipment. I have good impression and from Sony R1 with macro lens.
Unfortunately, I don't have a camera now, and I'm looking for a new one. Can anyone share a little experience?


sularome
(20.05.2008 10:26:09)

I don't have camera, so i can't tell what is good and what not,.. but i can tell you that you can't take good picture of your cat with scanner. She just won't stay still under the lid(weird)... LOL


deci
(24.07.2008 10:03:43)

Petar, I'm using a Canon 30D with a selection of lenses. I'm surprised you found the 135mm a bit short, my favourite lenses are the 85mm f108 and the 50mmL or 50mm 1.8. Mind you, I do like close ups, I suppose the 135 would be fine for 'action' shots (walking s about as much action as you get from ours).


deci
(24.07.2008 16:43:26)

Just noticed that the OP was nearly three months ago................... So have you got a cam yet Petar?


petar
(24.07.2008 17:48:58)

deci, I make pictures with my dad's Olympus C-770UZ now.
About Canon 135mm: most of my photos were of alley cats, and photographing them is more like taking shots of wild animals - the biggest lens you got - the better. For domestic cats 135mm is a little long, unless you have really big house. :D You can't take macro photos with it :\ Here is an example of the closest picture you can make with that lens:


http://piccat.com/pictures/49/baby_cat.html

This one too:
http://piccat.com/pictures/58/cats_face.html

The advantage of 135/2 over your 85/1.8 is that it's sharp at f/2 as much as yours at f/4, and if you are quality maniac like me, this will compensate you 2 stops, which will reduse the blurring from the action. Another advantage is that you'll be not so close to your cat and you'll not disturb it (you know most cats act different when you are around them)


deci
(24.07.2008 19:59:25)

Petar, That explains the 135 then :) I also do some stuff for our local rescue shelter where they have a rotating feral colony while they bring them in/neuter/re-release and for that I use a 70-300 zoom. Can't afford a 'long' prime at the moment as I just got the 50L.

I understand what you mean about the f number and blur, but because I shoot indoors mainly where its fairly dark and if I have to use flash at all, I like to keep it as low as possible. No point in scaring the little buggers off. So I rarely shoot at anything over 1.8, hence the 50mm 1.2. That lets me close it down a bit to reduce the softness. Tho' that (softness) is not a bad thing in itself when doing cats, I prefer to have some control and introduce it post processing if I can.

BTW # Nice pics :)


petar
(25.07.2008 02:03:45)

I've never used 50mm 1.2. How is it?


deci
(25.07.2008 10:31:50)

It's a tricky thing to use fully open, you have a DOF about equal to cigarette paper. Takes some getting used to. I've only had two weeks, so I'm still learning.
It has some well documented back focussing issues close to the minimum focus distance fully open, but I've yet to see anything significant in real life shots. These only seem to show (on my copy) if you start doing extreme pixel peeping.

And o course its great for low light shots.:)


petar
(25.07.2008 11:24:35)

Hm, back focussing is really bad :\ If your dealer is close better talk with him about this issue. You didn't gave so much money for backfocus


deci
(25.07.2008 16:20:17)

No.............. There are many reports of backfocus problems, apparently its an inherent design problem and its a bit hit or miss if it can be fixed, but I (like many 1.2 users} don't see it in real life pics. If I did shots of rulers/ charts, brick walls.......... I might notice it, but I don't, so its no problem for me and I suspect it wouldn't be a problem for a great many if they stopped measuring things to the nearest pixel.


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